The tomatoes are late, and that is fine
A cold May in Aït Ourir pushed the whole harvest back three weeks. Here is what we put on the menu instead, and why we refuse to buy from anywhere else to fill the gap.
Barley koji: eighteen months of failure
Naima's notebook, transcribed. Every batch that went wrong, what it smelled like, and the one change in humidity that finally made it work.
We took the tasting menu off for a month
Not a strategy, an experiment. What happened to the covers, the kitchen's mood, and the food when we removed the thing everyone came for.
Moroccan wine is better than you were told
Salma on Meknès, on the eight growers worth your attention, and on why the old reputation was earned by wines nobody makes any more.
Forty tarts a night, and not one more
Younes explains the arithmetic of a dessert that takes eighteen minutes to bake and cannot be made in advance without becoming a different, worse thing.
What we learned closing on Mondays
Six years ago we lost a sixth of the week's revenue on purpose. Staff turnover halved, and the food got measurably better. The full numbers.