The carte

Aubergine cooked directly on coals, garlic, cumin, and last year's olive oil from Ourika.

Semolina bread baked in the neighbourhood oven, aged butter, sea salt from Essaouira.

Clarified to a consommé, poured at the table over lentils, lamb tongue and coriander oil.

Three to an order. Pastry, pigeon confit, almond, a dusting of cinnamon and icing sugar.

Twelve hours in salt and chermoula, served cold with pickled turnip and flatbread.

Cracked green olives, harissa, preserved lemon rind. On every table by default.

Shoulder buried in embers overnight, pulled at the table, smoked aubergine, preserved-lemon jus.

Atlas beef aged forty days, argan emulsion, burnt onion, fermented barley on the side.

Butterflied, glazed three times over the grill, served with roast grapes and bitter leaves.

Our own coarse lamb sausage, harissa, cumin, grilled hard. Eat with the bread.

Milk-fed kid from the Atlas, prunes, almond, saffron. The oldest recipe in the house.

Roasted in the ash for an hour, tahini, pomegranate, dill. Not an afterthought.

Chermoula cured for an hour, grilled over vine cuttings, green olive and fennel.

Four large prawns, shells and all, brushed with a butter we burn on purpose.

Braised four hours, then charred. Chickpeas cooked in the braising liquor, parsley oil.

Fast over the hottest part of the grill, black barley, preserved lemon, wild rocket.

Taliouine saffron, aged barley cooked like risotto, brown butter, dry-aged sheep's cheese.

Six varieties from Aït Ourir, rose vinegar, almond cream, basil. June to September only.

Roasted whole with their tops, sheep's yoghurt, a spoon of green harissa.

Whatever is bitter that week, dressed in argan oil and lemon. The palate cleanser.

Cold custard, warm pastry, blossom water distilled on our neighbour's roof each April.

Medjool dates from Zagora, bitter coffee caramel, unsweetened cream.

Thin, shattering, warm. Honey from the argan forest, toasted almond, a little salt.

Poured from height, as it should be. Four small things to finish.